Is the 12 ton model press strong enough to forge pattern-welded damascus/mosaic steel?
Not only is it powerful enough to forge large billets of damascus, it can forge hammers and axes using out "Punch & Drift" die set! Checkout this video showcasing hammer-forging on our 12-ton press model. If you'd like to see great examples of the type of advanced damascus patterns you can forge using a 12-ton then checkout the work of Silas Blacklow or Olivia aka Wildcraft Knives on Instagram.
Which Press should I choose? What are they capable of?
The answer to this of course all depends on what you are aiming to produce in your shop, and also depends on the speed and output of work you need to achieve. Obviously if you are a full-time professional building a serious industrial production-line then either our 25 ton or 25 ton double-sided presses would be ideal for you. Our 16+ model presses have the advantage of speed for the solo-professional who's looking to step up their game. But many people are shocked by what even our 12-ton press can do! Every single one of our presses is fully capable of forging large hammers, axes, damascus steel billets, or even swords. The trade-offs of each machine involve choices of speed and power. So to get a better grasp of what each machine can do then be sure to visit our YouTube channel and watch all of our videos!
Is the 12 ton 110V(120V)?
Yes, in the US and Canada. Internationally we ship them 220V 50Hz 1PH.
Is there an advantage to having you wire 220V vs 110V?
The only difference is that it lowers the amp draw (technically more efficient but very minimal) but it will not affect performance at all, and it does potentially limit you to only be able to work in one spot by your 220V outlet VS being able to move around the shop and use any 20A capable 110V outlet.
What should I do if the punch gets stuck in my part, or I pull my stripper out of the die holder
First thing to do is asses the potential issue that caused the punch to get stuck, which typically relates to the type of lube (if any) that you used on your punch when you attempted the hole. We've got several videos on youtube showing punching with different lubes, which explains this process in more detail. Punching is the most problematic operation you can do on a press - as you're trying to jam a small rod through a big rod at thousands of degrees with thousands of pounds of force. Everything has to be just right! On this next round, take your time - go a little into the work and come out so you can see what the tip of your punch is doing (is it hot? is it rounding over? is it still cool with sharp edges?). Depending on the material you're punching you may find the best groove is to go in an inch, come out and cool, go back into the work an inch come out and cool - flip the part and clear the slug. Most of the time a stuck punch is too much too soon and the punch overheats and deforms in the material, or you didn't have your work-piece hot enough. We mostly punch 1045 and 1018 in the shop, going into other alloys will take a little experimentation to get right.
